Clements Ribeiro AW13

February 23, 2013
London Fashion Week

Usually renowned as the rebellious sibling of the Fashion Weeks, London had an altogether more subdued, considered approach this season. In spite of this newfound confidence (or perhaps even self-consciousness?), an undercurrent of punk influences was discernable in several of the collections. One of my favourite takes on the theme was at Clements Ribeiro, whose collection evoked a hard-edged femininity.

Established husband and wife design duo Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro are known for their masterful use of colour and pattern and eclectic twist on classic pieces. For autumn/winter 13 they took inspiration from their travels around India and Brazil – beautiful oriental flower prints, leopard print and gold embellishment.

Geometric prints featured heavily (often clashing) and my favourite was their fresh and modern use of tartan. Plaids and checks were all over the autumn/winter catwalks and Clements Ribeiro’s interpretation of the print was a definite highlight for me, balancing their signature bohemian femininity with the print’s punk associations.

Flirty skirts, bomber-style tops and slightly elongated knitwear combined with printed leggings also lent a sporty feel to separates. Colours were bold and wide-ranging, from earthy brown and khaki to pink and red. Layered lace, flower embroidery and jewel embellishment on coats and collars (and a lot of other places) were a feast for the eyes, as well as adding a real sense of fun. My favourite look in the collection was a stunning red fitted lace dress with embellished neckline, which was simultaneously elegant and tough.

Refreshingly, all the footwear was flat – models donned pointy, buckled boots and pixie shoes – even with the decadent eveningwear. The collection was vibrant and exuberant; the mish-mash of different influences made for an original collection that brought a smile to my face. Visit the ‘things we like’ page on the designers’ newly launched e-commerce site for a glimpse into their fascinating world.

Apologies for the slightly blurry pictures – I blame the excitement of being on the front row! (A massive thank you to Modus PR for inviting me!)

Nicole Farhi AW13

February 20, 2013
British fashion, London Fashion Week

One trend I’ve noticed gaining momentum recently is a return to separates. A designer who perfectly encapsulated this mood for autumn/winter was Joanna Sykes. Her debut collection for Nicole Farhi delicately balanced traditional tailoring with feminine softness.

Sykes was appointed Creative Director of the house last September and her first collection has been highly anticipated. With a background at Giorgio Armani, Alberta Ferretti and latterly as Creative Director at Aquascutum, I was keen to see what she would bring to the brand. On the Sunday of London Fashion Week I had the privilege of viewing her first offerings for Nicole Farhi up close at the brand’s Mayfair HQ.

Inspired by the label’s roots, Sykes presented a collection of separates that was strongly influenced by a menswear but most definitely cut for real women. ‘All of a sudden it’s about separates and flats, not dresses and heels,’ said Sykes. This was a starting point for the collection, focusing on outerwear and knitwear, especially what Sykes described as ‘great coats’. This was a real highlight for me. Tailoring was traditional and often quite mannish (even slightly oversized in places), which lent the collection an androgynous vibe. However, fabric and finish gave each piece a feminine edge: soft jersey (more on that later), leather and fur detailing.

According to Sykes, another key focus of the collection was texture. Knitwear displayed rich textures (just look at the close-ups below): graphic patchwork, contrasting burgundy and cream chevron stitches, oversized Mouliné and giant tweed jacquard. Chunky knitwear balanced silky separates and soft layers.

Sykes was keen to highlight the use of jersey throughout the collection; this was a nod to the houses’s heritage, synonymous with Nicole Farhi’s designs and with menswear more generally. The fabric enabled the designer to create soft, tonal tailoring, which she described as ‘sexy and flowing, not stiff’. The designs are elegant, with the added bonus of the comfortable qualities of a stretch fabric.

The designer also enjoyed playing with proportion, such as the longer sleeves seen on several looks, which further contributed to the mannish aesthetic. Shirts were crisp and oversized with crisp double cuffs, and the traditional cummerbund was deconstructed to create an exaggerated peplum silhouette.

Dresses were cut as straight columns, and layered with almost architectural-style panelling and texture. Exaggerated leather cuffs added toughness. Skirts were also slouchy – shift-like and relaxed, and cut to the ankle. Shirts introduced an element of softness, hand-painted on silk crepe. Tuxedo stripe panels were inspired by traditional tailored waistbands – I just loved the silver style suit trousers with contrasting braid.

The tonal colour palette complemented the subdued mood of the collection with nude, charcoal, winter whites with highlights of deep burgundy, spruce green and soft lilac.

As Sykes talked me through the collection, I was struck by the sheer craftsmanship on display. This is luxury that doesn’t shout from the roof-tops – in fact, that word, with all its ostentatious connotations really doesn’t do this collection justice. You just have to look at the details and textures in the below shots to see that.

It’s an exciting time for the house and for Sykes to deliver such a strong collection at this initial ‘transitional’ stage, and staying true to the house’s signature style while making her own mark, is incredibly promising.

Orla Kiely Autumn/Winter 13

February 18, 2013
London Fashion Week

Entering the enchanting Orla Kiely presentation this Saturday was like stepping back in time. The setting – a retro typing pool in London’s Elms Lesters Painting Rooms – was empty at first, before models began to come and go before our eyes, working at desks with old typewriters and retro telephones.

The whole display gave new meaning to ‘office dressing’, which I’m sure I’ll never look at in the same way again now. Kiely’s sixties-inspired ensembles were elegant and ladylike, nostalgic but without being self-indulgent or veering towards costume drama. Inevitable comparisons to ‘Mad Men’ will proliferate I’m sure, and while I agree, I thought that these Peggy Olsens were a lot better dressed.

The collection personified Kiely’s clever take on retro influences, with a smattering of new, and perhaps unexpected, colours and textures – such as the delectable pink knitted dress below. A perfect balance of pretty and prim, vintage-style prints and collar details were feminine without being saccharine sweet. The flocked velvet jacquard, chevron knits and shearling (adorning a beautiful grey coat) added sumptuous texture.

The adorable animal prints – including the squirrel cardigan and mini embroidered animal cardigan were real hits for me! Witty and cute, the Orla Kiely girl refuses to grow up in style.

Throughout the relaxed and intimate presentation the models were the perfect actresses, working at their desks, typing, filing and chatting together, before occasionally treating viewers to a catwalk strut along the corridor of the office (note to self – you are not an Orla Kiely model!).

Kiely’s inspirations were many and varied this season, including fictional character Margot Tenenbaum from film The Royal Tenenbaums (played by Gwyneth Paltrow), Irish artist and craftsman Breon O’Casey and seventies flocked wallpaper. A mish-mash of influences indeed! Super stylist Leith Clark injected her unique magic into the collection, which was a joy to behold.

The cute T-bar patent shoes were by Kurt Geiger and I can’t wait until they hit the shops – best worn with a pair of white tights à la Orla Kiely. I’d better get working on my dishevelled beehive as well!

What was your favourite piece in the collection? I just can’t decide… I don’t think I’ve ever seen a collection where I would genuinely love to wear all of it! It’s a toss-up between the grey flower print dress, pink knitted dress and that animal print cardigan I think.

Camden Passage Market

January 21, 2013
London Fashion Week, Places, Vintage

There’s nothing I enjoy more than visiting a market at the weekend, perusing the rails and hunting for unexpected vintage treasures just waiting to be found. However, particularly at some of the trendier London retro hotspots (East London, I’m looking at you), the crowds can put me off the prospect entirely. Don’t get me wrong, I love these markets too (and I’ll make sure to blog about them soon) but sometimes you just have to be in the right frame of mind for them, and willing to ignore a certain amount of posing occurring around you! Camden Passage Market sometimes gets forgotten about alongside the bigger, busier markets, particularly its nearby sibling Camden Stables Market, but it’s one of my all-time favourites because of its village feel – altogether more manageable in size, more laid-back in ambiance and offering a high quality and great variety of vintage goods.

Due to the snow this weekend the stalls at Camden Passage Market were a little less full than usual I thought, although last time I visited, it was bustling in the height of Summer! I was particularly drawn to the vintage jewels (magpie at heart), cute floral frocks and the most amazing tiny little shop filled to the rafters with antique crockery – piles upon piles of cups and saucers balanced precariously.

One of the things I love about Camden Passage is the beautiful antique shops and independent boutiques alongside the stalls – the market is after all only really there on a Wednesday and Saturday. This includes one of my favourite ever vintage shops, Fat Faced Cat, which has a brilliantly edited selection of vintage finds. Filled with unique items – such as quirky old books (I loved the Home Guide to Nursing above), kooky knits (just look at that reindeer jumper) and perfectly preserved blouses and dresses (I liked the pink polka dot number) – Fat Faced Cat does the hard work for you. The quality is really great, but premium vintage such as this does come at a price! If money were no object I would happily spend away in here, but it’s well worth a trip simply for masses of inspiration. They have a fantastic selection of menswear too, vintage-loving menfolk take heed!

Another big attraction of Camden Passage is the cute coffee shops and eateries lining the streets, almost as many as there are antique shops; ideal for a spot of relaxed weekend browsing and café-hopping. Issy’s Milky Way is the perfect place to refuel between shops and stalls. Inspired by ’50s diners and all things Americana, this unique milkshake bar is a ray of sunshine. The banana milkshake comes highly recommended, and the cakes were seriously yummy! I loved the décor – tongue-in-cheek and authentic down to the last detail, it was a masterclass in kitsch. Just look at that cat clock! So wrong it’s somehow right?

I can’t wait to go back and explore some more! Lastly, if you’re in the area then Ottolenghi‘s on nearby Upper Street comes highly recommended. We had the most amazing brunch – I had a deliciously spicy Shakshuka and Al had the tasty (and substantial!) cinnamon French toast.

Sass & Bide SS13

October 2, 2012
London Fashion Week

Sass & Bide is usually known for its bold colour palette and eye-catching embellishment, but this season, designers Sarah-Jane Clarke and Heidi Middleton embraced a fresh simplicity in their ‘Loveshady’ collection.

For spring/summer 2013, the design duo presented a notably more pared-back collection. Heidi Middleton described their design process as “traditional modernist”, and this new stripped back approach allowed the designers to explore different shapes and cuts. There was an almost Art Deco feel to the collection’s geometric lines and simple shapes. A particular highlight for me was the careful contrasting of masculine and feminine throughout the collection: monochrome masculine tailoring was balanced by floaty chiffon, origami-esque rosettes and pailettes.

The collection’s stark whites gave sharp pleats, origami detailing and cutaway lapels an almost clinical crispness. Military-style embroidery detailing, metallic accents and a subtle injection of neon orange stood out against black and white. In a move away from the almost hippy aesthetic of previous seasons, embellishments were used sparingly and precisely on edging or adorning rigid grid patterns – adding to the designs, for example following the curves of cleverly cut dresses, rather than overwhelming them.

Overall, the collection had a more restrained feel and seemed a lot more grown-up. I liked what I saw. Sass & Bide was my first show this London Fashion Week – and first ever fashion show – and it certainly lived up to my expectations. After their recent cash injection, Sass & Bide are firmly focused on expansion into the northern hemisphere. With 20 shops already in their native Australia and plans for a New York flagship in March 2013 the future is bright.

p.s. Sass & Bide showed their SS13 collection at the Royal Horticultural Halls in Victoria – a beautifully light venue with stunning high ceilings!

Paul Smith SS13

September 27, 2012
London Fashion Week

On the Sunday of London Fashion Week, Paul Smith showed his spring/summer 2013 women’s collection. The venue for the show was the Granary Building, pictured above, which is part of the striking new Central Saint Martins campus based at King’s Cross. The showspace was beautifully light and airy, and felt intimate in spite of its large size.

For spring/summer 2013, Paul Smith took inspiration from the work of multi-disciplinary French artist Jean-Paul Goude – the illustrator, photographer and art editor turned fashion film director. Goude is best known for his avant-garde, quasi-surrealist style, and the collection’s graphic use of mix-and-match colours and textures was influenced by his experimental aesthetic.

Texture was a key focus for spring/summer 2013. Fluid-like fabrics such as wool crepe and silk sable floated down the catwalk, and gave masculine styles a feminine twist. A mix of crepe-de-chine and georgette created light texture and plentiful pleats on skirts and dresses added movement. Super-shine leather-look tailoring was balanced with matt georgette and delicate lace inserts created contrast.

A key motif of the collection was the graphic stripe. Linear prints contrasted soft, feminine silhouettes and contrasting soft pleats gave the graphic styles a feminine touch. I was particularly struck by the eye-catching colour palette: bright hues, such as scarlet, sunshine yellow and bottle green stood out against a subdued base. Neutral black, navy and nude balanced the brights, giving them a fresh, modern feel. Bold, saturated hues were diluted to a more subdued, softly spring-like rust, ochre and nude.

Now for a selection of photos I took at the show. Sorry for the image overload, but I couldn’t not share them with you! Especially as I had a fantastic view from the second row at the show – look out for Alexandra Shulman (front row opposite on the left) and Anna Dello Russo (front row opposite on the right) in the background of the pictures!

Sir Paul Smith above (sorry it’s so blurry) and Anna Dello Russo leaving the show below.

London Fashion Week SS13

September 16, 2012
London Fashion Week

London Fashion Week (LFW) spring/summer 2013 kicked off on Friday and I was lucky enough to attend some shows this season on behalf of Show Media. Having followed LFW from afar for so many seasons it was such an honour to be there in person – needless to say I was VERY excited. Fashion Week is every bit as glamorous as you would expect (and more). Full reviews and pictures to follow soon, but LFW unfortunately coincided with the weekend we moved into our new flat so we don’t have our Internet set up yet – worst timing ever!

For now, here are some pictures of goings on at Somerset House, the home of London Fashion Week. Somerset House is one of my favourite places in London, even more so during LFW. Peacocks and poseurs aplenty – if you enjoy people watching then I urge you to get down there! The eye-popping print on all the LFW material was designed by Jonathan Saunders, the perfect backdrop for all those street style pictures.

Shows were live streamed on the big screen at Somerset House.

The BFC Showspace in the courtyard of Somerset House was home to many of the shows

Queue for one of the shows (Bora Aksu I think)

The backdrop of many a street style shot this week.

Accredited member of the UK press!

The Sunday Strut – Part One

August 20, 2012
Events, London Fashion Week

Yesterday afternoon Al and I took part in the One New Change ‘Sunday Strut’ – a 6 kilometre charity walk in aid of the Prince’s Trust. We were invited to don this season’s latest looks and strut from Cardinal Place in Victoria to One New Change in the historic City, taking in some of London’s most iconic sights along the way.

We were greeted by friendly faces at Cardinal Place and invited to relax on the roof terrace of the SW1 gallery (in Cardinal Place – above M&S!) or make the most of the pampering tent to get race ready. There were makeovers, manicures and blow-dries – it was pampering heaven. After we had been preened to perfection and had sampled the lemonade and nibbles, TV personality Anna Williamson kicked off the event. Firstly, Gym Box performed a warm-up “stiletto work-out” and dance routine – it was so much fun, sign me up now! The Gym Box ladies did well getting everyone involved, pumped up and ready to strut, in spite of the heavens suddenly and unexpectedly opening.

In spite of the heatwave London was experiencing, everyone made a real effort with their outfits. I’m going to save them for a post of their own as I think they definitely warrant one! In my attempt to stay cool, I wore the ubiquitous Zara pyjama trousers (that was my spring/summer trend ticked) with a vest, vintage denim Ralph Lauren shirt (Al’s), straw hat from Accessorize and my Ray-Ban Clubmasters.

Millie Mackintosh of ‘Made in Chelsea’ fame lead the strut, looking chic in a nude pink chiffon dress and co-ordinating wedges and accompanied by the adorable puppy Herby.

We gathered in our groups at the starting line, and on cue, set off on our route from Victoria past some of London’s most iconic landmarks as we strutted our way to the City. Here are a few pictures to sum up the walk, spot the red balloons that we held to keep track of each other (great idea):

Parliament Square

Big Ben

Downing Street

The halfway mark – Victoria Embankment

The London Eye from Victoria Embankment

London skyline from the Hungerford Bridge

Descending the Bridge onto the South Bank – one of my favourite places in London

We then walked along the South Bank until we reached the Millennium Bridge…

The City

Crossing the Millennium Bridge

Tower Bridge in the distance and the Shard on the right

As we neared St Paul’s we were fast approaching the finishing line…

… and soon we were done!

When we reached One New Change we were welcomed by cheers and whoops, and awarded medals for completing the Strut. We were then led to the roof terrace where we were given some amazing goody bags and a glass of bubbly to celebrate, courtesy of Searcys. These pictures really don’t do justice to the stunning views across London from the One New Change roof terrace, but here you go:

We then made our way downstairs to Gordon Ramsey’s Bread Street Kitchen for the afterparty, which was vintage tea party themed, complete with refreshingly fruity cocktails in vintage teacups (the watermelon martini was divine) and cake stands filled with scrumptious cakes.

The day was a great success and all for such a worthy cause. Congratulations to the organisers and well done to everyone who took part! The whole concept was a great idea and really got passersby talking; along the way we were stopped by countless people who asked what we were doing and applauded our efforts! The event was seamlessly organised, and the Prince’s Trust volunteers and Land Securities staff were so helpful and friendly. Thanks to all involved for a memorable day.

I only signed up last minute, and though I made the £100 target, I would love to raise some more money for charity – if you would like to sponsor me, I would be SO grateful: click here.

Little Black Dress: Art of Being

September 24, 2010
Fashion, London Fashion Week

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After ten years out of the fashion limelight, the launch of Elizabeth Emanuel’s label Art of Being was a storming success. The show called “Little Black Dress” was inspired by Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s as well as the black dress Emanuel made for Princess Diana that both transformed the royal’s public image and catapulted the designer to fame.

Emanuel spoke of the show’s title, saying “I’ve chosen the little black dress as a theme because it is such an iconic fashion item. The little black dress embodies glamour, allure, sophistication and can still also be funky, sexy and slinky.”

There was a front row packed with celebrity fans but all eyes were firmly on the fabulous creations floating along the catwalk.

The dresses were classic with a modern twist, showing that Emanuel clearly has her finger on the fashion pulse. The choice to make all the dresses in different shades of black allowed the gorgeous sihouettes, cuts and textures to shine. The bias cut added a beautiful sense of movement and the silk moss crepe draped beautifully.

In the ready-to-wear part of the range there was a delicate black loop motif in the dresses and accessories. The special edition range included the silk moss crepe as well as Chantilly lace and duchess satin cascading in layers. Ruffles, sparkle, bows, embroidery and strong shoulders made of layers of fabric added sumptuous texture to the elegant designs.

Emanuel is a fan of textures, creating them with fabric and embroidery ” in the same way as an artist uses paint.” She says this is a technique learnt when designing costumes for the Royal Ballet. “In a sense a woman’s body becomes the canvas for my art – hence the name of my label, Art of Being.” You can certainly see elements of theatricality in the dramatic designs. Art of Being dresses can be your costume, slip on one of the dresses to channel your inner Audrey Hepburn with the designs’ subtle sexiness.

The collection was at once classic and graceful but fun and sexy; a fusion of nostalgic influences and modern edginess.

Biker Chic at Burberry Prorsum

September 23, 2010
London Fashion Week

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Heritage has always been an important part of the Burberry brand; the S/S 11 collection “Heritage Biker” was inspired by Thomas Burberry’s designs for the first motorbike riders in the early 1900s.

Very different from his pioneering garments, I wonder what Thomas Burberry would have to say about the collection’s leather leggings, skyscraper heels and teeny cropped biker jackets. Taking the concept from the brand’s heritage, Bailey gave it a sexy, skintight and streamlined makeover.

The classic Burberry trench coat was shrunken into a zip-up mini trench with biker detail quilted sleeves, in some versions banded with black leather and cinched with a lime green or bright light blue double buckle belt. Leather biker jackets were shrunken further still and decorated with an abundance of studs. These super-studded jackets were paired with skintight silver leather trousers or studded jeans.

The now trademark silk dresses the designer has introduced to the brand were braver than ever. Sexy but subtle, the scoop backs added a seductive edge to the otherwise ultra-feminine designs in peach, mint and muted python print. The apron-style dress’ juxtaposition of pink petal silk ruffles and bands of leather holding the dress in place added a certain frisson.

The catwalk was awash with minimalist sand and black, accentuated with bright blue and green belts and tangerine bags. There were flashes of lime green and clashing yellow silk and a striking purple silk tulip-hemmed dress.

Pictures courtesy of LFW: Daily Diary (print@londonfashionweek.co.uk) (catwalking.com)