The Cambridge Satchel Company: Oxblood 14-inch Satchel

February 26, 2013
British fashion, London Fashion Week, Rosie Wears

When I heard that the Cambridge Satchel Company had plans to open a permanent shop in Covent Garden, after the success of their London pop-up at the end of last year, I was over the moon. I was lucky enough to interview the lovely Cambridge Satchel Company founder Julie Deane a few weeks ago (more on that soon!) and heard all about the plans just before the shop opened – excited doesn’t even cover it. Unfortunately, I missed the store’s grand opening as I was unwell, but I took time out between shows and presentations during London Fashion Week to pay a visit.

To think how far Julie has come from her kitchen table, where she founded the business just five years ago, is mind-boggling. The iconic satchels now have a global following and are stocked in 100 countries around the world with a vast fashion following and wealth of celebrity fans. But I won’t go on – I’ll let Julie do the talking about the company when I post the Q&A very soon.

The new shop is in the Seven Dials area and is an absolute delight. It’s the perfect extension of a carefully-crafted and much-loved brand. The shop has a real boutique feel and the stock is beautifully displayed on simple bookcase-style shelves and antique tables with row upon row of satchels in almost every hue imaginable. It was like a grown-up version of a sweet shop, but with treats that will last much longer than a sugar – or a fast fashion – fix.

The staff were incredibly friendly and happy to help find your perfect satchel (or just let you admire them if you’re not looking to part with your pennies!) and I think the Blogger Lounge (though I am biased) is a brilliant idea. Now, I enjoy online shopping as much as the next person, but there was something so special about making my trip to the shop, browsing the satchels and picking out mine that beats clicking ‘add to bag’.

I thought the embossing station was a genius idea too – the in-store embosser is ready to emboss the lettering of your choice onto your satchel for a small fee. A beautiful personal touch that many shoppers (and there were many when I went!) decided upon, including me. Meet my new satchel…

I’ve always had a soft spot for the Cambridge Satchel Company. I had a very similar satchel for school myself, so you could say this love stems from childish nostalgia – and I’m sure I’m not alone here. The bags are beautifully made – each is hand-crafted in Britain using traditional techniques, a real testament to British craftsmanship. Each is a labour of love, and the product of Deane’s singularity of vision, enviable business-mind and frankly commendable brand-building! A real piece of fashion history in years to come, I think.

I’ve been wanting to get my hands on a Cambridge Satchel since they first came onto my radar a few years ago, and decided to finally treat myself to the style I’ve been coveting for some time: the 14-inch satchel in oxblood. I was torn between the traditional muted colours and something more colourful, so this for me was a good balance between the two – richly hued but subdued enough to fit in with my everyday wardrobe, and not too ‘fashiony’. And you do know my love of burgundy and berry shades! I know I will wear it to death – and I’m sure it will only get better with age. I couldn’t resist getting my initials embossed in silver to match the buckles as a final flourish.

Which colour would you go for? I’d have one in every shade if I could! What do you think about the Cambridge Satchel Company story?

We took these shots at the hidden gem that is our local nature reserve, Parkland Walk. Tucked away at the end of our street is the entrance to a leafy walkway that goes all the way from Highgate to Finsbury Park (Parkland Walk South) and on to Ally Pally (the North part). It was once going to be used as a railway line and there is even an abandoned station, known by locals as the ‘ghost station’ – spooky! The perfect spot for some blog-snapping, expect to see more of this leafy backdrop in future posts, as it’s become our go-to location for a Sunday stroll.

Clements Ribeiro AW13

February 23, 2013
London Fashion Week

Usually renowned as the rebellious sibling of the Fashion Weeks, London had an altogether more subdued, considered approach this season. In spite of this newfound confidence (or perhaps even self-consciousness?), an undercurrent of punk influences was discernable in several of the collections. One of my favourite takes on the theme was at Clements Ribeiro, whose collection evoked a hard-edged femininity.

Established husband and wife design duo Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro are known for their masterful use of colour and pattern and eclectic twist on classic pieces. For autumn/winter 13 they took inspiration from their travels around India and Brazil – beautiful oriental flower prints, leopard print and gold embellishment.

Geometric prints featured heavily (often clashing) and my favourite was their fresh and modern use of tartan. Plaids and checks were all over the autumn/winter catwalks and Clements Ribeiro’s interpretation of the print was a definite highlight for me, balancing their signature bohemian femininity with the print’s punk associations.

Flirty skirts, bomber-style tops and slightly elongated knitwear combined with printed leggings also lent a sporty feel to separates. Colours were bold and wide-ranging, from earthy brown and khaki to pink and red. Layered lace, flower embroidery and jewel embellishment on coats and collars (and a lot of other places) were a feast for the eyes, as well as adding a real sense of fun. My favourite look in the collection was a stunning red fitted lace dress with embellished neckline, which was simultaneously elegant and tough.

Refreshingly, all the footwear was flat – models donned pointy, buckled boots and pixie shoes – even with the decadent eveningwear. The collection was vibrant and exuberant; the mish-mash of different influences made for an original collection that brought a smile to my face. Visit the ‘things we like’ page on the designers’ newly launched e-commerce site for a glimpse into their fascinating world.

Apologies for the slightly blurry pictures – I blame the excitement of being on the front row! (A massive thank you to Modus PR for inviting me!)

Nicole Farhi AW13

February 20, 2013
British fashion, London Fashion Week

One trend I’ve noticed gaining momentum recently is a return to separates. A designer who perfectly encapsulated this mood for autumn/winter was Joanna Sykes. Her debut collection for Nicole Farhi delicately balanced traditional tailoring with feminine softness.

Sykes was appointed Creative Director of the house last September and her first collection has been highly anticipated. With a background at Giorgio Armani, Alberta Ferretti and latterly as Creative Director at Aquascutum, I was keen to see what she would bring to the brand. On the Sunday of London Fashion Week I had the privilege of viewing her first offerings for Nicole Farhi up close at the brand’s Mayfair HQ.

Inspired by the label’s roots, Sykes presented a collection of separates that was strongly influenced by a menswear but most definitely cut for real women. ‘All of a sudden it’s about separates and flats, not dresses and heels,’ said Sykes. This was a starting point for the collection, focusing on outerwear and knitwear, especially what Sykes described as ‘great coats’. This was a real highlight for me. Tailoring was traditional and often quite mannish (even slightly oversized in places), which lent the collection an androgynous vibe. However, fabric and finish gave each piece a feminine edge: soft jersey (more on that later), leather and fur detailing.

According to Sykes, another key focus of the collection was texture. Knitwear displayed rich textures (just look at the close-ups below): graphic patchwork, contrasting burgundy and cream chevron stitches, oversized Mouliné and giant tweed jacquard. Chunky knitwear balanced silky separates and soft layers.

Sykes was keen to highlight the use of jersey throughout the collection; this was a nod to the houses’s heritage, synonymous with Nicole Farhi’s designs and with menswear more generally. The fabric enabled the designer to create soft, tonal tailoring, which she described as ‘sexy and flowing, not stiff’. The designs are elegant, with the added bonus of the comfortable qualities of a stretch fabric.

The designer also enjoyed playing with proportion, such as the longer sleeves seen on several looks, which further contributed to the mannish aesthetic. Shirts were crisp and oversized with crisp double cuffs, and the traditional cummerbund was deconstructed to create an exaggerated peplum silhouette.

Dresses were cut as straight columns, and layered with almost architectural-style panelling and texture. Exaggerated leather cuffs added toughness. Skirts were also slouchy – shift-like and relaxed, and cut to the ankle. Shirts introduced an element of softness, hand-painted on silk crepe. Tuxedo stripe panels were inspired by traditional tailored waistbands – I just loved the silver style suit trousers with contrasting braid.

The tonal colour palette complemented the subdued mood of the collection with nude, charcoal, winter whites with highlights of deep burgundy, spruce green and soft lilac.

As Sykes talked me through the collection, I was struck by the sheer craftsmanship on display. This is luxury that doesn’t shout from the roof-tops – in fact, that word, with all its ostentatious connotations really doesn’t do this collection justice. You just have to look at the details and textures in the below shots to see that.

It’s an exciting time for the house and for Sykes to deliver such a strong collection at this initial ‘transitional’ stage, and staying true to the house’s signature style while making her own mark, is incredibly promising.

Orla Kiely Autumn/Winter 13

February 18, 2013
London Fashion Week

Entering the enchanting Orla Kiely presentation this Saturday was like stepping back in time. The setting – a retro typing pool in London’s Elms Lesters Painting Rooms – was empty at first, before models began to come and go before our eyes, working at desks with old typewriters and retro telephones.

The whole display gave new meaning to ‘office dressing’, which I’m sure I’ll never look at in the same way again now. Kiely’s sixties-inspired ensembles were elegant and ladylike, nostalgic but without being self-indulgent or veering towards costume drama. Inevitable comparisons to ‘Mad Men’ will proliferate I’m sure, and while I agree, I thought that these Peggy Olsens were a lot better dressed.

The collection personified Kiely’s clever take on retro influences, with a smattering of new, and perhaps unexpected, colours and textures – such as the delectable pink knitted dress below. A perfect balance of pretty and prim, vintage-style prints and collar details were feminine without being saccharine sweet. The flocked velvet jacquard, chevron knits and shearling (adorning a beautiful grey coat) added sumptuous texture.

The adorable animal prints – including the squirrel cardigan and mini embroidered animal cardigan were real hits for me! Witty and cute, the Orla Kiely girl refuses to grow up in style.

Throughout the relaxed and intimate presentation the models were the perfect actresses, working at their desks, typing, filing and chatting together, before occasionally treating viewers to a catwalk strut along the corridor of the office (note to self – you are not an Orla Kiely model!).

Kiely’s inspirations were many and varied this season, including fictional character Margot Tenenbaum from film The Royal Tenenbaums (played by Gwyneth Paltrow), Irish artist and craftsman Breon O’Casey and seventies flocked wallpaper. A mish-mash of influences indeed! Super stylist Leith Clark injected her unique magic into the collection, which was a joy to behold.

The cute T-bar patent shoes were by Kurt Geiger and I can’t wait until they hit the shops – best worn with a pair of white tights à la Orla Kiely. I’d better get working on my dishevelled beehive as well!

What was your favourite piece in the collection? I just can’t decide… I don’t think I’ve ever seen a collection where I would genuinely love to wear all of it! It’s a toss-up between the grey flower print dress, pink knitted dress and that animal print cardigan I think.

‘Alouette’: Alex Monroe for Evans

February 11, 2013
Rosie Wears

High street collaborations are ten a penny now but when I heard that one of my favourite jewellery designers, Alex Monroe, was launching a diffusion collection with high street retailer Evans, I did a little dance!

Known for his delicate, feminine jewellery Monroe’s designs are the perfect balance of whimsy and wit. His small but perfectly formed trinkets and charms are most often inspired by the natural world, which has become his signature. Birds, flowers, animals and insects adorn elegant chains, fine bracelets and rings in designs that exemplify not only his beautiful craftsmanship but also a sense of fun. He has justifiably become a firm favourite in the world of fashion.

‘Alouette’, the eight-piece collection which launched last Friday, is influenced by nature in typical Monroe style. Pretty gold leaf bracelets, necklaces and rings, and an adorable skylark cameo necklace all feature. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the elegant yet affordable collection was an almost instant sell-out online. With prices ranging from £18 – 35 for a slice of the high fashion jewellery action, it’s clear to see why.

The collection’s intimate glamour comes from a central image the designer returned to when working on the designs – that of a child watching her mother get ready for a party in the Sixties or Seventies. This blend of sophistication and sweet nostalgia is something of a motif for Monroe now. Furthermore, as a fan of the Pre-Raphaelites (especially after a recent trip to Tate Britain), I was interested to hear the collection was also inspired by William Morris. Monroe’s use of gold leaves references the artist’s recurrent depictions of furled, curling leaves. This added a particular sense of richness and otherworldliness to the collection.

I wasn’t quick enough off the mark online when the collection launched, but I headed to the Marble Arch store after work on Friday and luckily there were still a few pieces left. I managed to get my mitts on the gold leaf necklace, which was my favourite piece in the collection that I was hoping to track down. What’s your favourite piece in the collection? Did you manage to get hold of any of the designs before they sold out?

And the packaging was almost as exciting as what was inside…

Designer Spotlight: Catriona MacAllister

February 7, 2013
Scotland, Scottish fashion

With a healthy whack of designers and manufacturers originating in Scotland, as well as many finding inspiration there, the spotlight is firmly on Alba and all it can offer the world of fashion.

The recent acquisition by fashion behemoth PPR of a 51% stake in Christopher Kane showed that Scottish designers are gaining real currency. Regular readers will know I’m a real champion of Scottish design talent and love to share the work and achievements of emerging designers from North of the Border.

One such design talent is Catriona Clark, of womenswear label Catriona MacAllister. The Scottish Fashion Award-nominated designer clearly has a passion for her craft and breathes fresh life into the industry. I predict big things for the innovative young designer, who has already achieved so much. And she’s living proof that there are lovely people in fashion that can make things happen.

Catriona very kindly answered some questions for me that I thought I would share with you – hope you enjoy the Q&A! To start with, here’s some shots from her beautiful graduate collection, ‘Archaic Light’, shot by Christopher Heaney:

Have you always wanted to be a designer? Where does this interest come from?

My family has always been artistic as both my parents were art teachers – my mum also has a strong interest in patchwork quilting and also runs her own business teaching others. My grandmother used to do millinery too, so I guess that I knew from an early age I was going to embark with a creative career and over the years it developed into fashion.

Where did you learn your craft?

I have a BA in Fashion Design for Industry from Heriot-Watt University, School of Textiles and Design. Growing up, I had been sewing for many years and as a child my mum taught me patchwork quilting and how to make some of my own clothes.

What inspires your designs?
I take inspiration from pretty much anywhere. I really just let my mind wander as it’s usually the ideas that I stumble upon that have the biggest impact on me, rather than ones that I think through too much. Although, I have found that I draw a lot of inspiration from architecture and always end up referring back to it in some way or another.

How would you describe your aesthetic?

Within my collections I focus on strong tailoring and an elegant silhouette that highlights intricate detailing using laser cutting, embroidery and digital printing.

Is your heritage important to you? Does it come into your work at all?

My heritage is very important to me and I would like to be able to represent this to an international audience. It does inspire my work but it will vary from season to season as to what I have been focused on researching. For my current spring/ summer13 collection I would say that it has subtly inspired my work through the traditional architecture.

Do you feel under pressure as a designer to conform to certain trends?

Understanding trends and the importance of them is good for me as a designer; however I feel it is my job to contribute to creating trends also. I try not to think about if my work fits with the current trends but rather concentrate on how I can best represent my ideas through a cohesive, well constructed collection for the customer.

Do other designers inspire you?

Yes of course! But they also encourage me too which I feel more important, as starting up on your own is difficult and you spend a lot of time on your own, you need to in order to get so much of the work completed on time. So if you are going through a difficult stage with the label, knowing that other designers have been through the same thing and are now doing incredibly well just helps to keep you going.

Tell me about your spring/summer 2013 collection.

This collection is titled “Archaic Light” as a lot of my inspiration came from architecture, in particular cathedrals and churches. Some of my favourite images of these types of buildings are all the old derelict ones that are in ruins. I took a lot of my initial inspiration from Elgin Cathedral not far from my home in Scotland. It’s a beautiful building and you can still see a lot of the hand carved decoration in the stones. I can only imagine what it would have looked like before it fell into ruins.

As so much of the photography I was looking at was in black and white that led to the colour palette consisting mainly of whites and pale greys. Much of the detail in the collection came from the decoration of the interiors and in particular the stain glass windows. Inspiration for this was taken from the “Sagrada de la Familia” by Gaudi in Barcelona. This was then developed into laser cutting and embroidery seen throughout the collection.

What are your favourite materials to work with?

I like to work with a variety of materials in my collections, and always try to use something I haven’t used before; however, it is always exciting using traditional fabrics in new and unusual ways. I remember a project I did at university with a few classmates for the rainwear company Mackintosh where we had to design a new coat for them; with my design I experimented with laser cutting designs onto their traditional rubberized cloth which produced some really interesting effects.

Green is Pantone’s ‘Colour of the Year’. Do you have a signature or favourite colour?

With the spring/summer collection I guess that white has become the signature colour for me; which is interesting as I see it like a blank canvas at the start of my career, waiting to be filled with colour, who knows!

What’s next for Catriona MacAllister?

Keep pushing the label forward with innovative collections that help to raise awareness of my work to an international audience.

Thank you to Catriona for taking the time to answer my questions! You can check out her website here, follow her on Twitter here and like her Facebook page here.

Here’s a closer look at Catriona’s spring/summer 13 collection with some studio shots by Dan Sim.

Thanks to Catriona for the graduate show images by Christopher Heaney and photoshoot images by Dan Sim.

Clarks Macay Holly Ankle Boots

February 5, 2013
Rosie Wears

Ankle boots are rarely off my feet, come rain or shine, summer or winter. Of everything in my wardrobe a trusty pair of ankle boots would probably win the most-worn prize by a mile, the most recent addition being this pair from Clarks.

The excellently named ‘Macay Holly’ boots were a Christmas present and replacement for my much-loved and subsequently battered pair of old ankle boot. These shiny new stack heel ankle boots are incredibly versatile, and haven’t left my tootsies since Christmas! High enough to give a bit of a boost but with a chunky heel that’s perfectly wearable for every day, these boots work just as well with a tailored dress for work as they do with a pair of skinny jeans at the weekend. These boots are incredibly comfortable, after a few days’ wearing in and softening up they were a dream. They’re a perfect blend of masculine and feminine, balancing the chunkiness of the sole and heel with a feminine almond-shaped toe and delicate slanted zips.

Once associated with ‘sensible’ flats and school shoes (I was particularly attached to my Clarks pumps), in recent seasons Clarks has been coming up trumps with chic, modern designs. They somehow manage to achieve shoe perfection: well-made, infinitely comfortable as well as stylish. Until recently I wasn’t sure such a shoe existed!

Judy’s at Spitalfields: February Love List

February 2, 2013
Vintage

14 February is fast approaching, and whether you go googly-eyed for all things Valentine’s, or are cynical about the whole thing, there’s no avoiding it. Press releases have been winging their way into my inbox since December with the dreaded V-Day subject line (seriously – could we not get Christmas out of the way first?!) and filled with hearts, pink and fluffy things and more often than not a gift guide in at least some guise. While I love flowers, chocolate and lingerie as much as the next girl, sometimes just a little imagination can mean so much more.

As one of Judy’s Affordable Vintage Fair’s resident bloggers, today I took part in an extra-special Valentine’s themed blogger challenge at their monthly fair at Old Spitalfields Market. Becky Bedbug and I were tasked with compiling a ‘Love List’ of our favourite items at the fair. Armed with my ‘Love List’ sign and a red heart-shaped balloon, and with the romantic theme in mind, I set about perusing the stalls with the goal of finding and sharing with you some suitably retro gifts for guys and gals this Valentine’s.

Madame Fifi Presents is new to the Judy’s stable – it was their first fair today and they looked like they were having a great time! I was first drawn to their sparkly collection of brooches and trinkets, including this adorable owl. However, it was this beautiful men’s vanity kit that particularly caught my eye – this full set was in great condition and would be the perfect present for a well-groomed gent.

Old Pony had a fascinating collection of historical artefacts and quirky objets d’art. I was cooing over their retro crockery when I spotted vintage gold (to me anyway) – a Singer sewing machine. My Gran was a dressmaker, so sewing machines have always held a particular fascination to me and one day I would love to own a vintage Singer of my own. This one was in perfect condition and all wired up ready to go. I was SERIOUSLY tempted – if only we had the room. There was no question about it, this had to go on the Love List. I was drawn to this little owl as well – sounds strange, but it made me think of one of my friends, which reminded me that gal pals deserve some Valentine’s love too and that sometimes the best presents are those that really mean something, just between the two of you.

If you’re looking for a slightly different gift, then Vintage in Print has a beautiful selection of vintage photography, specialising in fashion photography and retro ads. In fact, for Christmas Al and I unwittingly purchased vintage prints for one another at Judy’s December fair. I blogged about the lovely Vintage in Print then too, as they really make the perfect gift for vintage photography aficionados and lovers of old advertisements alike. At the fair today this David Bailey shot of Grace Coddington (yes I’m obsessed, ok?) and stunning Helmut Newton shot of Twiggy really stood out for me.

I was spoilt for choice at the aptly named Magpie’s Attic – filled with the most beautiful jewels, trinkets and stylish retro artefacts. This lovingly-curated collection is the work of mother-daughter duo Sarah and Emilie. Each item seems to have a story and mystique about it – you really get the feeling that Magpie’s Attic want to share a piece of this magic with you. I felt their vintage jewels in particular would make a lovely gift; the high street’s mass-produced Valentine’s tat is a million miles away from this. You feel as though each piece has a history and that by owning it you would become the next part of its story. Magpie’s Attic genuinely believe that certain items are meant to belong with some people and you can’t fault Sarah’s eye! This beautiful sapphire and diamond ring and black onyx cufflinks and tie pin set made my Love List – both would make a meaningful and memorable gift.

I’ve saved the best ’til last: I couldn’t resist the gorgeous I Heart Vintage. Rebecca had truly embraced the theme with all things cute, kitsch and Valentine’s-appropriate. Along with her staple offerings of sweet knick-knacks and feminine retro homeware, there was a smattering of Valentine’s-themed objects; highlights for me included these adorable heart tins and vintage ‘Love is’ mirrors. Far from saccharine sweet, I Heart Vintage has a great sense of humour – check out those kitsch ’50s cat figurines and the cheeky Adam and Eve bottle openers that Judy’s previewed on their Facebook page. If your loved one has a penchant for florals and love hearts then you would be spoilt for choice, but I Heart Vintage has its tongue firmly in its cheek too and has some brilliant witty gifts. I bought Al some whisky glasses with sweet and funny ‘Scottish scenes’ on for Christmas and there was plenty from here on my Love List today.

I also covered the fair (and the progress of my Love List on the Judy’s Facebook page – thank you for having me Judy’s! Lastly, I couldn’t resist sharing these shots of two stylish shoppers. I liked this chic vintage-goer’s all black outfit with a pop of blue, and her two-tone hair got a lot of love on Facebook! This dapper chap caught my eye with his clever accessorising and bicycle-print shirt. What’s not to love?!

Did you go to Judy’s at Spitalfields today? What’s on your Love List?